Interview with Susana Teixeria - designer e co-founder of "Collectiva Joalharia de autor"

fieramilano, Rho
18-20.09.2021

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Interview with Susana Teixeria - designer e co-founder of "Collectiva Joalharia de autor"

COLLECTIVA JOALHARIA DE AUTOR is an independent platform promoting the work of emerging Portuguese designers and brands. The proposed collections, related to the world of women, are characterised by identity, contemporaneity and exclusivity. These are limited editions and unique pieces, presented through both physical and virtual events.

COLLECTIVA JOALHARIA DE AUTOR was founded in 2017 by a group of women to give a voice to women and their creativity. We are in Portugal, specifically in the city of Porto, where the art of the goldsmith is traditionally linked to male craftsmanship and "pure" goldsmithing with very precious workmanship that can weigh up to 19 carats.

 

“Collectiva was founded as a permanent working group made up of Portuguese women, with diverse educational backgrounds but with one thing in common: a love of contemporary designer jewellery - explains Susana Teixeira, designer and co-founder of Collectiva - In recent times, Collectiva Joalharia de Autor has also become COLLECTIVA MEETING, an annual event with the intention of bringing together Portuguese and international designers to promote new talent and the most innovative jewellerycreations”.

 

The group wants to make contemporary jewellery accessible by presenting collections with interesting designs but with an affordable price range.

 

“Collectiva's collections are somewhere between the exclusivity of contemporary 'gallery' jewellery and the trend-setting bijou vocation. - continues Susana - Each designer develops his or her collection independently. The pieces must have an 'underlying concept', an identity, but at the same time meet the requirements of 'portability' and 'wearability’.”

 

Collectiva's designers aim to create a “unique piece”. Their aim is to create collections that can be reproduced in limited numbers. Therefore, it is necessary that the collection created, while having a high design content, is “usable” and “light”: a fundamental factor is the choice of materials used for its creation.

 

“The materials used to make the collections are very diverse: from silver to paper and ceramics, from organic materials (e.g. branches or other plants) to steel, from textiles to natural stones,” Susana explains. Collectiva was created as a permanent physical gallery in the heart of Porto: “The physical relationship with the public is fundamental for us, as they must be able to appreciate the creations personally, with the possibility of touching and trying on the collection. You buy a piece of jewellery by "touching" it and appreciating the designer's creativity and craftsmanship”.

 

Recently, partly as a consequence of the health emergency, it became necessary to consider an evolution of the physical gallery. “Collectiva has become an online portal for presenting the collections and novelties of the participating designers. The optimal solution, therefore, is a physical gallery and an online site”, Susana concludes.