New Craft at the HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition is the space where contemporary jewellery reveals itself, both through materials and references to current events.
New Craft at the HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition is where contemporary jewellery reveals itself, both through materials and references to current events. It’s not measured by the variety of what’s on offer, aiming to adorn the body or establish one's own aesthetic idea. Here, design has a deeper connection with our surrounding reality: a relationship between creator, jewellery and wearer. It’s a responsible cultural choice and very often, it’s a courageous one too.
‘Shape’ is the heart of contemporary jewellery which, in design, meets ‘function’. “Creativity and ingenuity, with aspirations of investigating and expressing themselves in an individual way, these are the creator’s keys to success. In short, the unexpected and authentic. It’s important to find your own story, which isn’t a straightforward process, and then you need to know how to put that into your work, in the use of materials, in respecting or provoking forms — explains Eliana Negroni, founder of the Gioielli in Fermento project — This doesn't mean snubbing traditional or precious jewellery, rather the opposite! Researching the value of history and authenticity is a very topical issue. These features are less notable in a mass-produced piece, they don’t speak to us enough. Nowadays many generations no longer wear jewellery and are attached to brands. This audience might like to have the opportunity to speak directly to artists and young creatives, and this is something that becomes possible at our events. This is one of my main aims: to help people understand that there’s something else out there. To increase the audience’s critical thinking so they can recognise and choose something different for themselves”.
September’s edition, however, takes a fresh look at the future driven by new demands as well as needs. Sustainability has become one of the cornerstones of contemporary designers, an aspect that’s also quite close to the heart of the non-profit jewellery organisation Associazione Officine di Talenti Preziosi, in Rome. “Sustainability is understood as both metal traceability and using alternative materials — explains founder Marina Valli — As far as metal salvaging goes, Arezzo is home to a major industry that supported us throughout a project presented at AltaRoma: the material they use is salvaged from, for instance, disused computers. I myself chose alternative materials, such as fabric derived from pineapples, while another partner worked on the theme of apple peels. I think it’s also important to study new avenues for the jewellery of today and tomorrow.
And finally, Angela Tonali, jewellery designer and lecturer at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, shares her point of view: “Finding new solutions to the most pressing issues of our time, like climate change, responsible resources and material sourcing, is crucial. Recycling is a topic that’s cropping up more and more in fashion and lots of designers have decided to join the cause, changing their old ways to reduce waste and have a more positive impact”.
Link to the whole interviews: