Architects and developers lend themselves to contemporary jewellery

fieramilano, Rho
17_20 FEB 2023

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Architects and developers lend themselves to contemporary jewellery

A stunning amour between architects and the world of contemporary jewellery.

A stunning amour has brought architectures into the world of jewellery with the outcome being an alchemy of colours and shapes that only the background and world view of a design engineer could come to envisage.

 

The role of the architect naturally comes with a distinctive sensibility, a multifaceted brilliance capable of translating ergonomic rules into sophisticated, bold and wearable elements. Looking back, names like Roberto Sambonet come to mind, who designed for a renowned American fashion house, or Ettore Sottsass with his Arnaldo Pomodoro inspired sculptural brooches as well as Ron Arad who synthesised the outdoor metal sculpture in a ring, and Franco Albini who went from designing the Milan’s metro stations to essentialist parure in the name of precision.

 

Past visions that have by no means been depleted in the present: with the New Craft section, HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition is offering a chance to showcase the poetics of architects contributing to contemporary jewellery with original materials and sculptural approaches.

 

Maria Diana studied architecture at the Polytechnic University of Turin and has always had a keen interest in ceramics, both white and coloured with oxides such as cobalt, iron and manganese. Maria works these by hand to create organic or geometric shapes that are later fitted with metal structures and turned into brooches, necklaces and earrings.

 

The head and hands behind Lunate jewellery is architect Paolo Gambarelli, designing and crafting each piece by hand with artisanal skill. He calls himself a “pre-minimalist” as his collections are total simplicity, both in their form and materials used, while it's their geometric composition that acts as their expressive force.

 

Last but not least, Laura Volpi graduated from the Brera Academy of Fine Arts and trained at the specialist TAM centre with Arnaldo Pomodoro and Davide De Paoli. Laura’s collections reflect on the relationship between space and matter: extremely light sculptures that unfurl over 3 dimensions that can be worn on your fingers or ears.